Randolph B. Marcy: The Prairie Traveler


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     Randolph B. Marcy
          The Prairie Traveler
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St. Paul’s to Wallah Wallah

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XVIII.—From St. Paul’s, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon.


    Miles.
St Paul’s to
17 1/4.Small Brook.—The wood, water, and grass are abundant as far as teh “Bois des Sioux” River.
20 1/4.Cow Creek.—This stream is crossed on a bridge.
23 1/4.Small Lake.—North of the road. The road passes over a rolling prairie, and crosses Elk River on a bridge.
17.Near Sauk Rapids.—The road crosses Elk River twice on gridges; Mississippi River near.
18.Russel’s.—Ferry across the Mississippi River, then follow the Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring brook.
6.Cold Spring Brook.—Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4 1/2 feet deep.
19 1/2.Lake Henry.—Road good.
18 3/4.Lightning Lake.—Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat; water 4 1/2 deep.
17 1/2.Lake.—One mile from Red River trail. Pass White Bean Lake.
9 1/2.Pike Lake.Pass the South Branch of the Chippeway River. Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses a small branch.
19 1/4.Small Lake.Cross Chippeway River in a boat. Road passes numerous lakes and the best grass.
9 3/4.Small Lake.—Road passes rolling prairies, and crosses Rabbit River.
27.“Bois des Sioux” River.—Cross Boix des Sioux Prairie; rolling ground.
11.Wild Rice River.—Cross “Bois des Sioux” River, 70 feet wide and 4 to 7 feet deep, muddy bottom and banks. Wood, water, and grass at all camps between this and Maple River.
4 1/2Small Creek.—Cross Wild Rice River on a bridge.
26 1/2.Sheyene River.—Smooth prairie road.
16 1/2.Maple River.—Cross Sheyene River on a bridge, and several small branches.
20.Small Creek.—Smooth road; no wood.
20.Pond.—Wet and marshy; numerous ponds in sight; no wood.
15.Pond.—No wood; approaching Sheyene River.
13 1/2.Sheyene River.—Prairie more rolling; camp in the river bottom. Wood, water, and grass abundant.
7.Slough.—Cross Sheyene River, 50 feet wide, 3 1/2 feet deep. No wood.
10.Lake.—Rolling prairie, with many marshes. Wood, water, and grass.
10 1/2.Pond.—Low, wet prairie; no wood; plenty of grass and water.
18 1/4.Marsh.—Smooth prairie, generally dry.
20.“Riviére à Jaques.”—Smooth prairie, with marshes. Road crosses the river several times. Wood, water, and grass.
21 1/2.Pond.—Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds, and no wood.
12.Small Branch.—Marshy prairie filled with ponds with a thin, short grass, and no wood.
19 3/4.Lake.½—On a high knoll. Road crosses the South Fork of Sheyene River; good crossing; thence rolling prairie, passing “Balto de Morale,” also a narrow lake 4 1/2 miles long.
16 1/2.Pond.—Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls; cross a small branch at 7 3/4 miles. No wood.
17 3/4.Pond.—Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering River, a deep, muddy stream 100 feet wide, also marshy prairies and ponds. No wood.
16.Small Branch.—Tributary of Mouse River. Road skirts the valley of Mouse River, crossing the ravines near their heads.
15 1/4.Pond.—Undulating prairie with occasional marshes; the road then turns up the high ridge called “Grand Coteau.” No wood.
20 1/4.Lake.—Hilly road approaching Grand coteau. No wood.
20.Lake.—Rolling prairie; smooth, good road; no wood.
15 1/2.Pond.—Road passes Grand Coteau at 11 miles, and runs between two lakes. No wood, but plenty of “bois de vache” for fuel.
19 1/4.Branch of White Earth River.—Country rolling and hilly. Road passes wood at eight miles from camp.
23 1/4.Pond.—For two miles the road passes over a low, flat country, after which the country is hilly. No wood.
23 1/2.Pond.—Rolling and hilly country, with rocky knobs. At 18 miles cross branch of Muddy Creek 15 feet wide. Wood in ravines near this stream. No wood at camp.
20.Pond.—Rolling country. At 11 miles there is water in a ravine. To the left there is more water, but the country is rough. No wood.
16 1/4.Fort Union.—Road descends a hill to the fort; before this it passes over high, firm prairie. Good grass near in the hills.
6 1/2.Pond.—No wood; good grass.
6.Little Muddy River.—Good camp.
15 1/2.Creek.—Two good camps between this and the last. Wood, water, and grass.
10.Big Muddy River.—Drift-wood for fuel.
11.Marsh near Missouri.—Good camp.
18.Poplar River.—Good camp. One or two good camps between this and the last camp.
23 1/2.Creek near Missouri.—Good camp.
15.Slough near Missouri.—Good camp.
17 1/2Milk River.—One good camp between this and the last camp.
13 1/2.Milk River.—Several good camps passed.
17 1/2.Milk River.—Good camp.
19 1/2.Milk River.—Several good camps passed.
17 3/4.At the crossing. The road follows a trail on the bluffs, and descends again to the river.
7 1/2.Lake.—No wood; grass and water plenty.
12 1/2.Milk River.—Second crossing. Good camp.
12.Milk River.—Good camp.
15 1/2.Milk River.—Good camps between this and the last camp.
10 3/4.Milk River.—Good camp.
20.Milk River.—Good camp.
16.Milk River.—Good camp.
18.Milk River.—At the third crossing.—Good camp.
7 1/2.Branch of Milk River.—Good camp.
17 1/2.Branch of Milk River.—Several good camps between ths and the last camp.
6.Branch of Milk River.—Good camp.
19 1/4.Prairie Spring.—No wood; water and grass plenty.
13 3/4.Teton River.—Road crosses “Marias River.”
8 3/4.Teton River, at Fort Benton.—A trading-post.
2 1/2.Small Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
18 3/4.Missouri River.—Good camp.
20 1/2.Missouri River.—Above the falls. Road much broken into ravines. Wood, water, and grass.
16 3/4.Missouri River.—Road crosses first tributary above Fort Benton at ten miles.
16 3/4.Missouri River.—The road becomes very bad after fourteen miles, but is better on the north side of the Missour.
6.Missouri River.—The road is exceedingly rough and broken; crosses the river.—Good wood, water, and grass.
11.Tributary of the Missour.—The most difficult part of the road is passed, but the country is still hilly.
18 1/2.Tributary of the Missour.—The road follows up the last-mentioned stream to near its head. Good camps.
15.Near the summit of Little Blackfoot Pass, on a broad Indian trail; excellent road.
14 3/4.Little Blackfoot River.—Road crosses the summit of the Rocky Mountains. Good road for wagons, with many camping-places.
17 1/2.Little Blackfoot River.—Road good, descending along the river. Near the camp a large fork comes in.
28 1/2.Little Blackfoot River.—Good road, which follows the broad, open valley for 14 miles. Good camp.
19 1/2.Little Blackfoot River.—The valley contracts to that wagons will be forced to take the bed of the river in some places. The river is fordable, and the trail corsses it five times during the day.
27 1/2.Fort Owen.—Road runs up the St. Mary’s River to Fort Owen over a broad, good trail in the valley.
40.St. Mary’s River.—The south Nez Percés trail leaves the main trail, which ascends the St. Mary’s Valley to the Forks, and follows the southwest fork to its source. To the Forks the valley of the St. Mary’s is open, and admits wagons.
24.Southwest Fort of St. Mary’s River.—The road follows a narrow trail, crossing the river frequently, and is not passable for wagons. The valley is narrow, and shut in by hills.
5 1/2.Kooskooskia River.—Road leaves the St. Mary’s River, passing over a high ridge to the Kooskooskia River.
10.Branch.—Road runs over wooded hills.
14.Creek.—Road runs over wooded hills.
9.Small Creek.—This is the best camp between the St. Mary’s River and the Nez Percés country.
15.Small Creek.—Road passes over wooded hills.
9.Small Branch.—Road passes over wood hills, is very rough and difficult. Poor camp.
14.Small Creek.—Ten miles from last camp the road passes a high divide, ascending rapidly, though not difficult. Good grass on the summit, but no water.
13.Small Creek.—Good camp where the trail emerges from the woods on to the high plateau.
7.Clear Water River.—Large tributary. Road runs over high table-land, and descends to the valley of the river.
43.Lapwai River.—The road follows a broad trail down the river six miles, when it leaves the river bottom and ascends the plateau, which extends to Craigü’s house, on the Lapwai, fifteen miles from the river.
23.Tributary Snake River.—The trail runs over high ground from Craig’s to Lapwai River, 15 miles. This river is 450 wide. No wood. Indians are generally found here, who ferry over travelers. The trail follows Snake River for several miles.
26 1/4.Tchannon River.—The trail passes 5 1/2 miles up the bottom of a small creek; then runs over a steep hill to another small creek, 8 miles; then along the valley of this stream 10 1/2 miles; thence over a high hill to camp on Tchannon River, 3 miles.
11 1/2.Touchet River.—The trail crosses the Tchannon River, and ascends to a high plain, which continues to camp.
32 1/2.Touchet River.—Road follows a good trail along the valley, where good camps are found any where, with wood, water and grass.
19 1/2.Fort Wallah Wallah.—Leaving Touchet River, the trail passes over again to the plains, when there is neither wood, water, or grass to Fort Wallah Wallah.


Total distance from St. Paul’s to Fort Union712 1/2 miles.
Fort Union to Fort Benton377 1/2 miles.
Fort Benton to Fort Owen255 miles.
Fort Owen to Fort Wallah Wallah340 3/4.
Total distance from St. Paul’s, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon1685 3/4 miles.
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