Randolph B. Marcy: The Prairie Traveler

IV.—From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City.

Miles.
	Leavenworth City to
3.	Salt Creek.—Good camp; wood, water, and grass.
12.	Cold Spring.—To the right of the road, in a deep ravine, plenty of wood, water, and grass.
12.	Small Branch.—To the north of the road, in an arroya, good wood, water, and grass. Here enters the road from Atcheson, 6 miles distant.
16 2/3.	Grasshopper Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
9 1/2.	Walnut Creek.—Road passes a town called Whitehead, 4 miles from last camp. Water in pools, but 3/4 of a mile below is a fine spring; plenty of wood, water, and grass.
17.	Grasshopper Creek.—Good camp, with wood, water, and grass.
12 1/2.	Big Nemehaw, two miles above Richland.—Good wood, water, and grass near the creek.
11.	Water-holes.—On the ridge, at the head of a ravine, are wood, water, and grass, but in a dry time there would be but little water.
10 3/4.	Vermilion Creek .—Water in the creek not good, but there is a good well of cold water near the road. Wood and grass good.
21 1/2.	Big Blue River.—Upper crossing, good ford; plenty of wood, water, and grass. Fine clear stream, 60 yards wide.
17 1/2.	Branch of the Big Blue.—Camp half a mile north of the road; good wood, water, and grass.
15.	Turkey, or Rock Creek.—Good spring 400 yards to the north of the road. Store at the crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.
19.	Big Sandy.—Wood, water and grass good.
19.	Little Blue River.—Road runs across the hills without water until reaching camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
18 3/4.	Little Blue River.—Camp is at the point where the road turns off from the creek. Good camps may be found any where on the Little Blue, with excellent wood, water, and grass. Fine running stream.
15.	Little Blue River.—Road strikes the creek again, and keeps it to the camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
19.	Elm Creek.—Road leaves the Little Blue, and runs along a divide to the head of Elm Creek, where we found water in holes, with some few trees; grass good.
20.	Little Platte River.—Road crosses one small branch, where there is water except in a dry season. Good camp on the Platte, with wood, water, and grass.
15.	Fort Kearney.—Good camp about two miles from the fort, upon the Platte, with wood, water, and grass.
17.	Platte River.—Road runs along the river, where there is plenty of grass, and occasionally a few cottonwood-trees. Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the traveler can always get a plenty of buffalo-chips along in this section.
16 3/4.	On Plum Creek.—Road runs along the Platte to plum Creek, where there is a little wood, with good grass and water. Mail station at the crossing of Plum Creek.
22 1/3.	On Platte River.—Road runs along the Platte bottom after crossing Plum Creek, and is good except in wet weather. The road occasionally comes near the Platte, and, although the timber becomes thin, yet places are found where fuel can be obtained. Grass is plenty at all points.
23.	On Platte River.—Road continues along the river valley over a flat country where the water stands in ponds, and is boggy in wet weather. Camps occasionally on the river, but little fuel. Grass and water good.
14.	On Platte River.—Road continues along the valley, with the same character as before, but more timber. Camp opposite Brady’s Island. Plenty of wood, water, and grass.
17 1/4.	Sough.—On the Prairie. Road runs from one to three miles from the river. No wood all day; plenty of grass, and buffalo-chips for cooking.
15 1/4.	Platte River.—Road crosses O’Fallon’s Bluffs, where there is a good camping-;lace on the right of the road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass on a small stream, which is part of the Platte. Mail station here.
16 1/2.	South Platte River.—Road runs along the Platte, with no timber. Good grass and water at any point, with buffalo-chips for fuel.
17.	South Platte River.—No timber all day. Good water and grass at all points, with buffalo-chips.
8.	South Platte Crossing.—No wood all day. Good water and grass, with buffalo-chips. The river is about 600 yards wide, rapid, with quicksand bottom, but can be forded when not above a medium stage. It is best to send a footman ahead to ascertain the depth of water before crossing the wagon and animals.
19.	Ash Hollow, at North Platte River.—Road leaves the South Fork of the Platte, and strikes over the high prairie for 16 miles, when it descends the high bluffs bordering the valley of the North Platte, and enters Ash Hollow, where there is plenty of wood and a small spring of water. Half a mile beyond this the road reaches the river. Mail station and a small grocery here.
16 3/4.	North Platte.—Very sandy road; no wood; grass and water plenty at all points; buffalo-chips sufficient for cooking.
17.	North Platte.—Road sandy in places; no wood; good grass and water; some buffalo-chips.
16 1/2.	North Platte.—Road good; no wood; good grass and water; cattle-chips in places.
18 3/4.	North Platte.—No wood. Camp opposite “Chimney Rock,” which is a very peculiar formation on the south of the road, and resembles a chimney. Grass good. Road muddy after rains.

17 1/2.	North Platte.—No wood; grass and water good.
16.	“Horse Creek,” branch of the North Platte..—In seven miles the road passes through Scott’s Bluffs, where there is generally water in the first ravine about 200 yards below the road. The road then descends the mountain, at the foot of which is the Platte and a mail station. A little wood can be obtained at Scott’s Bluffs; there is none on Horse Creek.
14 1/4.	North Platte.—Road follows the river bottom all day. Wood, water, and grass on the river.
12.	Fort Laramie.—Road rough and rocky in places. There are wood and water plenty, and before many trains have passed the grass is good abov the fort. Mail station and post-office here, with a sutler*#8217;s store well stocked with such articles as the traveler wants.
10.	North Platte.—Road good, but hilly in places. Camp is in the river bottom, with plenty of wood, water, and grass. Hot spring two miles above here.
14.	Bitter Creek.—There are two roads, both of which lead to Salt Lake. The upper or south road is best in the spring or in wet weather. I traveled the lower road. Wood, water and grass are good.
17 3/4.	Horse-shoe Creek.—Fine camp, with excellent wood, water, and grass. The road here forks, one passing to the left over the hills, and the other running nearer the Platte.
20 1/2.	North Platte River.—Good road along near the river. Good wood, water, and grass. Road crosses the river at 12 1/2 miles.
20 1/4.	North Platte River.—Road crosses the river again, and the camp is two miles above the mouth of La Prell Creek. Good wood, water, and grass.
19.	North Platte River.—Road runs along the river, and is smooth and good. The camp is two miles above the crossing of Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith*#8217;s shop and store. Good grass, wood, and water.
16.	North Platte River.—Good road, with wood, water, and grass at camp.
13.	North Platte River.—Good road passing the bridge, where there is a blacksmith*#8217;s shop and store, also a military station and a mail station. At two miles from camp the road crosses the river on a good ford with rocky bottom. The wood, water, and grass are abundant.
23.	Red Buttes, on the North Platte.—Road is very hilly, and in some places sandy; passes Willow Springs, where there is grass and a little wood. Good wood, water, and grass at camp. Mail station here.
11.	Sweet Water Creek.—Road leaves the river at the Red Buttes, and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Good grass and water, but little wood at camp.
15.	On Sweet Water Creek.—Road passes a blacksmith’s shop and store at the bridg six miles from camp, and at 2 1/2 miles from the camp it passes the “Devil’s Gate” and a mail station. The Sweet Water here runs between two perpendicular cliffs, presenting a most singular and striking appearance. Take wood at the Gate for camp. Good grass and water at all places on Sweet Water Creek.

20.	Sweet Water Creek.—Road muddy after rains, and some bad ravines to cross. Wood, water, and grass of the best quality at camp.
12.	Sweet Water Creek.—Road runs along the valley of the Sweet Water, where there is plenty of wood and grass in places, but little at the camp noted.
8.	On Sweet Water.—Road good; no wood; grass abundant.
20.	On Sweet Water.—Road good; no wood.
17.	Strawberry Creek.—Little wood; grass and water abundant. Road leaves “Sweet Water,” and ascends a very long hill which is very rocky.
20 1/4.	South Pass.—Road crosses the dividing ridge, and strikes the Pacific Springs, where there is excellent water and good grass if many cattle have not passed, in which event the traveler had better continue on down the creek which issues from the spring. Sage for fuel; no wood.
15 3/4.	Dry Sandy Creek.—Grass scarce; no wood; some sage and greasewood; water brackish, but drinkable; road good. Here the traveler should send ahead and have the best spots of grass found, as it is very scarce throughout this section. Sublett’s Cut-off turns off here for Soda Springs and Fort Hall. Take the left for Fort Bridger and Salt lake City.
15.	Little Sandy Creek.—Grass in spots along the creek bottom, and some fuel.
18.	Big Sandy Creek.—Grass in detached spots on the creek, and little fuel.
21 1/2.	Green River, Upper Ford.—Grass and fuel on the river.
7.	Green River, at the Lower Ford.—Good grass and fuel below the ford. Ferry in time of high water. Mail station and grocery.
16.	Black’s Fork.—Good grass and fuel.
7.	Ham’s Fork.—United States bridge, no toll. Good grass and fuel.
12.	Black’s Fork.—Road forks at the crossing of Black’s Fork, both roads leading to Fort Bridger. This itinerary is upon the left-hand road, which crosses Black’s Fork two miles from Ham’s Fork.
13.	Smith’s Fork.—Good camps along Black’s Fork at any place, but the road leaves the stream for several miles. Wood, water, and gras at the confluence of Black’s and Smith’s Forks.
18 1/4.	Fort Bridger.—Good camps above and below the forst. Military post, mail station, and store.
	Muddy Creek.—Good grass, wood, and water. Grass short after many trains have passed. It is then necessary to go up the creek to find good grass. Road passes a fine spring 3 miles back.
19.	Bear River.—Good camps, with wood, water, and grass. Good ford, except in very high water. Sulphur Creek two miles back.
19.	Red Fork.—In “Echo Cañon,” two miles below Cashe Cave, good grass and fuel; water plenty.
19 1/4.	Weber River.—Good grass, wood, and water. Mail station. United Sates bridge for high water;; no toll.
5 1/4.	Spring Branch.—Good camp. Road leaves the river, and takes the left into a valley.
9.	Bauchmin’s Creek.—Road crosses over a mountain, and descends to the creek, where there is a good camp.
14.	Big Cañon Creek.—Road crosses Bauchmin’s Creek 13 times in 8 miles, then ascends the mountain along a small creek, which is well wooded and good grass.
6.	Emigration Creek.—Road leaves Cañon Creek, and crosses the two mountains, which are very steep and long. Grass and wood before crossing the “Little Mountain.”
10 1/4.	Great Salt Lake City.—Forage can be purchased here, as well as most of the articles the traveler may require, at high prices. There is no camping-place within two miles of the city. It is best for those who encamp with the animals to cross the Jordan River, or to stop near the mount of the cañon before entering the city.

Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake City, 1168 miles.